Sandra, houseowner, was waiting for me at the bus stop in Taupo which, strangely, is usually pronounce ‘toe paw’ here. I’m always getting the pronunciation of words wrong as I obviously pronounce them as we would in England! I’d FaceTimed Gary, Sandra’s husband, a few months ago and thought we’d get on and we did, immediately. Sandra has grey hair like me although hers is longer and a slightly different shade plus she’s 12 years younger than me. Like me, she decided to let her hair go grey as she got fed up with visits to the hairdresser for highlights.
Gary returned home an hour later. They are from the same part of Glasgow and emigrated nearly 20 years ago. They originally spent 10 years in Nelson (on NZ’s South Island), then moved to Albany, Western Australia as Gary got a job staying for 8 years but he finally left as was constantly being bullied by the management. They came to Taupo a year ago when an opportunity came up to buy a flooring business called ‘Flooring First’. They’ve worked exceptionally hard in that year and greatly increased sales.
Before dinner, Gary took me for a short walk with the dogs – their normal morning walk through a local reserve which Gary does at 5am but not expected of me, thank God! The dogs are both 10 years old: an Australian Selkie called Pepper and cross Lab/Scottie called Brodie who, to me, looks a bit wolf/deerhoundy. Brodie has lymphoma but at the moment seems to be in remission.
Brodie 
Pepper
We had dinner and Gary and I shared a nice bottle of red wine (Sandra doesn’t really drink) then a glass of Ned Pinot Gris. Gary showed me how to work the tv and we started watching the first episode of Mr Mercedes, but Sandra and I chatted while Gary, not surprisingly given his very early start, fell asleep.
On Thursday morning, Gary and Sandra left for work at 0730 telling me the day was my own. I did a walk into town (about 20 minutes from their house) to orientate myself and check out local activities in the I-site office. I was amused by the town’s McDonald’s alternative restaurant, chosen from over 34,000 as the World’s Coolest McDonald’s which I couldn’t argue with:
I also checked out the lake front, deciding to do a longer walk around part of the lake another day, and was also amused by the ‘Hole in One’ challenge into the lake, and a man who’d been diving to collect the golf balls:
At 5pm Gary drove Sandra and me in one of their two Toyota Prado Land Cruisers to Taupo’s little airport and I drove it back, which is mine to use. As it’s got ‘Flooring First’ all over it I wondered if I might get stopped by any disgruntled customers or if I might even make some sales! I took the dogs in the car to one of their evening walk venues and let them have a run. These dogs are not going to tire me as they only generally have 30 minutes’ walk morning and evening as I was told if Brodie has longer he’ll be stiff and struggle to stand.
I’d seen a sign for a walk to Huka Falls, 6km each way, so as Friday’s forecast was reasonable thought I’d do it. It was 20 minutes to the start and near where I’d walked the dogs last night. I passed the following sign on the way, which I think is rather amusing:
The walk is along the banks of the Waikato River, NZ’s longest, with shared walking/cycling tracks and separate cycling tracks each side. Further up the river is Aratiatia Power Station, the first hydroelectric power station built on the river of 9, with 8 dams, one of the country’s major electricity-producing rivers producing about 15% of NZ’s power (although I later heard that figure was 23% so maybe the sign was out of date). I thought I’d walk along one side to the falls, cross the bridge there and walk back along the other side of the river. The views weren’t always the best as it drizzled and was quite misty at times but the water in the river was crystal clear.
Just before arriving at Huka Falls, which seemed a lot further than 6kms, I passed a bungy jump platform and watched two people get their 2 second thrill. I was reminded of when I watched my travelling companions on the Contiki tour, 26 years ago, bungy jump near Queenstown. I wasn’t brave enough to participate then, just looked after everyone’s bags and took photos for them. It’s also a very expensive 2 second thrill. Just past the bungy jump were some natural hot pools where a few youngsters were bathing, the only free hot pools in the area.
I could hear Huka Falls a while before arriving and when I did arrive there were a fair few people, most of whom had obviously just parked at the adjoining car park to see the sight, which was pretty impressive. As always when in the presence of water I marvelled at its power with over 220,000 litres of water per second flowing over an 11 meter high waterfall, enough to fill 5 Olympic swimming pools every minute:
Some brave (or stupid) people have tried kayaking down through the falls mostly coming a cropper (interesting idiom that, must check out how it originated). It’s illegal to do so and there’s a heavy fine for anyone attempting, although people have been successful.
As I couldn’t find any tracks the other side of the river (although there were some according to a map) to return I ended up walking along the road, which was disappointing. A car driver kindly stopped to offer me a lift but I turned it down as wanted the extra exercise. By the time I got home the app on my iPhone showed I’d walked 9.5 miles, but then they’re not that accurate. It was a good walk for sure and I enjoyed it.
Just around the corner from ‘home’ is a Maori cemetery and I stopped to have a proper look. There was a young man in a car with his baby. He told me the grave he was parked by was his mother’s who had died of pancreatic cancer aged 46 when he was 18, 3 years ago which I thought was sad. He said he goes there every day. Most of the graves had a picture of the deceased and were adorned with plastic flowers and some had plastic toy beach windmills. Gary told me that at night it’s all lit up.
On Sunday 15th I decided to walk to the little museum in town. It’s really small with interesting local history, mostly about volcanoes and timber mills, a room with some art – mostly textiles and a small courtyard with a reconstructed garden – Ora Garden of Wellbeing – that was exhibited at the Chelsea Show in 2004 winning a gold medal. All the plants are native, some endangered or of significance to this region. I think the pink in the background is meant to be water:
Taupo is one of the world’s best examples of a caldera lake (collapsed crater) caldera meaning cauldron, and one of the most active rhyolite volcanoes in the world. It’s the biggest lake in NZ covering 238 square miles which is roughly the size of Singapore.
I noticed on the map that there was an ‘Old Military and Early Settlers’ Cemetery’ so, as I enjoy checking out cemeteries, I visited it. There were just 12 graves, not exactly well tended but the white picket fence surrounding them was:
On Tuesday evening I went to the Great Lake Centre (a theatre and exhibition hall) in the town centre to see ‘A Taste of Ireland’, an Irish dancing show following in the footsteps of Michael Flatley’s shows but not quite the same staging or scale. I really enjoyed it. There were just two live musicians (some of the music was prerecorded) who were outstanding and a male singer who also joined in with some dancing. The small theatre wasn’t quite full but it was an appreciative audience.
Wednesday turned out to be a lovely day so I decided it was time to walk along the walkway/cycle way from the centre around some of the lake. En route I passed some black swans (later counting at least 18 in one area) and a woman on her scooter being pulled along by her husky (huskies need lots of exercise and are very strong so I thought that was a great idea, although not exactly ‘mushing’). I spoke to her on her return and she told me she does it every day (5 miles each way) and her dog, whom she had rescued, was called Winter. On the subject of scooters, in Auckland they have electric scooters which people pick up like the Boris bikes in London. People were whizzing about on them on pavements and roads and were quite a nuisance at times.
Black swans:
There were some very nice lakeside pads and small hot water pools in an area called Hot Water Beach with warning signs, so I didn’t attempt to test the water:
Nice lakeside pad! 
Hot water pool 
Another hot water pool, you can just see the steam rising on the right
The visibility was great and I could clearly see the three mountains, all snow covered, Mounts Ngauruhoe, Ruapehu and Tongariro in Tongariro National Park in the distance – quite dazzling:
In the distance from L-R snow covered Mounts Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe & Tongariro
I enjoyed watching some black ducks with blue beaks, my research telling me they’re New Zealand Scaups. They didn’t have a quack but made quite a lovely peep. I spotted one duck who kept opening its mouth to try to attract its sleeping parent but no sound would come out:
New Zealand Scaups
I had hoped to walk to 5 mile bay which, as it’s name suggests, is 5 miles from the centre after 2 mile, 3 mile and 4 mile bays. However, having started a bit later than planned and needing to get back to the dogs for their afternoon walk, I retraced my steps just before 4 mile bay.
Lake views:
Gary had mentioned that 5 mile bay was one of the places he takes the dogs so I drove out there with them so Brodie could enjoy a dip in the lake. There were plenty of people free camping (called ‘freedom camping’ here) well motorhoming, often available in NZ. I noticed a lot of pumice on the beach, a type of extrusive volcanic rock produced when lava with a very high content of water and gases is discharged from a volcano. As the gas bubbles escape, the lava becomes frothy. When this lava cools and hardens, the result is a very light rock material filled with tiny bubbles of gas. I picked a piece up thinking it might come in useful. The sky started to turn pink and people sat on the beach waiting for sunset. I chatted to a gent sitting in a chair whose dog took some interest in Pepper – she didn’t complain. He proudly told me he was 76 and would be skiing on Mount Ruapeho at the weekend.
Brodie enjoying a swim 
Pepper not so keen on swimming!
Thursday turned out nice too and I went on a 2 hour boat trip which Sandra suggested was worth doing. I had a choice of a Catamaran, yacht or replica steam boat and I chose the latter, the Ernest Kemp named after an early settler. The boat is a replica of a 1920s steam boat built from native Kauri timber. The steering wheel was originally one of two winding reels mounted on a horse-drawn hose-reel used by the NZ fire brigade and the steam whistle originally from a NZ bush steam locomotive in the central North island. This boat seemed the most popular of the choices, the yacht used its motor anyway, the sails put up for show.
The main destination of the 2-hour trip was to some Maori rock carvings. On the way we passed by Acacia Bay, so called because of the acacia trees planted in the area, not particularly attractive trees but apparently their bark can be used to tan leather. Then Jerusalem bay and then to the rock carvings in Mine Bay, only accessible by boat. The main carving is of Ngatorirangi, a great and powerful high priest and ancestor of the artist Matahi Whakataka Brightwell (27th generation) whose grandmother asked him to create a likeness of their ancestor. She had asked him to create it on a Totara tree to create a permanent connection for her family with the land but he found no tree to carve so went onto the lake for inspiration and spotted the rock alcove. The main carving is surrounded by smaller sculptures e.g. lizards, depicting ancestors and guardians. It was carved in the late 1970s and scaffolding was used and string with weights for plumblines.
On the return journey, Mount Tauhara (a dormant lava dome volcano) was pointed out as looking like a pregnant woman laid down, and it really does. Also in the distances were some white rocks (like a mini white cliffs of Dover) which is pumice stone, found all over the shoreline.
Pumice stone rocks 
Mount Tauhara
Another lovely day on Friday. As the cleaners come on Friday (I love the housesits that have cleaners!) I wanted to be out of the way. I decided to walk up Mount Tauhara as it would really be my last chance. When I got to the car park I nearly talked myself out of it, but fortunately I didn’t. It’s 1088m above sea level (Taupo being 360m above seal level) with the start at 600m and the walk 2.8km to the top.
The start of the walk was through farmland, pretty steep, with fence markers and a couple of stiles and then continuing uphill through thick forest, with only a few openings for views of the Lake and surrounding area. I’d packed my walking poles and was really glad as they were necessary, particularly when there were high steps (the steps mainly being tree roots with only the odd bit of human interference) to propel me up. My knees just won’t get me up without help any more. I noticed that nobody else I passed had poles but they were all a lot younger. I chatted briefly to a Dutch female doctor who was about to start a 6 month posting in Hawkes’ bay and a nice Belgian man who was travelling around NZ for 6 weeks. I found myself apologising to them both for being English and for the Brexit chaos!
It took me 2 hours to get to the top and it was well worth it, with 360 degree views and excellent visibility. I had a spot of lunch at the top then made my way back down, obviously a lot quicker but still dodgy in places. I felt a real sense of achievement and was glad I hadn’t chickened out.
Views on the way up Mount Tauhara and at the top:
Every evening, apart from Tuesday, I’d been gorging on Lightbox’s ‘Mr Mercedes’ and watched series 2 & 3 of ‘Handmaid’s Tale’!
On Saturday morning I took the dogs for an earlier than usual walk and went to pick up Gary and Sandra from Taupo airport at 9 am. I had been looking forward to seeing them again and some conversation. After a short chat I decided to leave them in peace for the day.
It was an even more beautiful day and I popped down to the Saturday market which I’d missed last Saturday as the weather had been poor. It was a bit larger than the Feilding market but I got round it pretty quickly. It was nice to see families there.
I spent the rest of the day ambling around the lake. I stopped to watch people not getting a hole in one although one man did keep getting his balls to hit the platform but they then bounced into the lake. For hitting the platform it was a free ball each time. I decided that it would be pretty unlikely to get a hole in one as the platform wasn’t lined with grass so balls did just bounce off. However the sign indicated that up to date there had been 1047 holes in one with an average of one each fortnight. I calculate that, if that is correct, then the ‘hole in one’ challenge would have been going for 40 years which somehow I doubt. Anyway, it was a bit of fun for the participants and audience but it would have been nice to witness someone win the prize of $10,000.
Stunning mountain views 
The Ernest Kemp 
He was robbed!
I sat and read my book on a bench and watched activity on the water: a noisy jet ski boat, a water skier and the Ernest Kemp on its return from the carvings. A few hardy children were swimming and having fun. I checked on the ducks and swans and had a cheeky Passionfruit & lime cider (not as nice as straight cider, too sweet) outside a bar overlooking the lake. I got back to the house just in time for Gary and Sandra to take the dogs out.
I’d prepared a meal for us all the day before but unfortunately Sandra didn’t like it as it was too spicy (she doesn’t like a lot of things, fish being one) so Gary ate her portion as well as his. Gary plied me with wine – I’m just so easily persuaded- and we watched the All Blacks vs Springboks Rugby World Cup match, well Gary zoned into it while Sandra and I chatted in the background.
I was sorry to leave and really hope that I’ll meet them again as felt as if we really connected. They plan to leave NZ in 5 years and travel around Europe in a motor home while they decide where to live. They’ll be in their mid 50s then. They dropped me off at the bus stop in town for my bus to Auckland which left at 1020 arriving at 1545.
I checked into the Budget Ibis hotel I’d stayed at before and went to check out the walk to the railway station in advance of tomorrow’s early start. Just as well I did as the route I took was up a steep hill and then down some steep steps. I returned a different way which will be a lot easier while dragging my heavy case. I suppose it would be sensible to take a taxi but I like a challenge and will save a few dollars. I went through Albert Park and spotted another photo opportunity of the Sky Tower:
I found a nice little bar for a veggie burger and kumara fries washed down with lager and caught up with this travel blog!
NeverSayNeverNomad 